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Knight-Captain Cullen How To, Part 13: Overskirt - Tactical Ninja

Mar. 4th, 2014

10:11 am - Knight-Captain Cullen How To, Part 13: Overskirt

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Time taken: 7 hours
Materials: Charcoal linen, gold acetate satin, red drill fabric, thread, waxed linen heavy thread, 810 cap 10mm and 12mm shank rivets, 1.2mm leather in 20mm strips, 20mm buckle
Tools: Pins, sewing machine, ironing board and iron, sewing awl, mallet, hole punch, rivet setter and anvil.
Techniques: Sewing, leatherwork, riveting.
Difficulty level: Pretty easy apart from handling that goddamn acetate satin!


This is the reference pic I used:



You can see that the overskirt seems to be attached to the inner, higher piece of waist armour. It has gold piping and those golden flame things in the corners. My back view tells me they are also on the back.

So first, I needed to cut a bunch of strips of acetate on the bias, then press and pin them around the edges.



For the second stripe across the bottom, I sewed the acetate into a tube and turned it right-way-out, then pressed and pinned it into place. For the edges, I pinned one side, sewed it in place, then pressed and folded it around the edge of the charcoal fabric and pinned/sewed a second time.



To make the wee flame things, I made a cardboard template and cut 8 pieces, then sewed them together inside out:



These were turned the right way out and pinned in place, then sewn around the edges.



To attach them to their armour pieces, I used the leather sewing awl (speedy stitcher), and did a double row of stitching where they join:





To hold this piece on, I added a leather strip at the back and a buckle at the front, riveted on.





Next, I added a belt to hold the outer tassets which were made in this tutorial here, and after that the only remaining part was the sash. This was a simple matter of cutting a 4m length of the red drill fabric. Well, actually it was 2 x 2m lengths, sewn together. I cut them 12cm wide, and hemmed the edges to end up with long strip about 8cm wide.




And then, the moment of truth! I apologise for the quality of the pics here, especially the somewhat crooked back view. They were taken mainly to show how the armour hangs and are not my best work.



Note here: this means of attaching armour would work well for women, who tend to have hips which give you something to hang belts off. For men, who tend to be straight through the hips, using belts isn't ideal. The weight of the tassets and overskirt armour pulls it all downwards and because it sits over the tapered lower section of the breastplate, there's a tendency to slide downwards. You can see in the pics that it's all sitting lower than it should. My model said he felt as if the tassets might slide off if he jumped up and down.

I will address this by adding loops to the breastplate for the armour to hang off. This should prevent it from descending too far. I will also add a means of attaching the tasset part to the overskirt part so they stay together and in place. I may even rivet them together for extra security. However, we can pretty much call this job done now.

Comments:

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From:pombagira
Date:March 3rd, 2014 09:18 pm (UTC)
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yeah i can see how it feels like it would fall down.. :/ but loops on teh brest plat are a great idea.. yay
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From:tatjna
Date:March 3rd, 2014 09:40 pm (UTC)
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I expect that real armour has some kind of buckle system to hold it on. That should transfer the weight from the hips to the shoulders, and make it easier to hold the whole thing together.

Also, if you took Cullen's armour off he'd be skinny as fuck underneath.
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From:pombagira
Date:March 3rd, 2014 09:46 pm (UTC)
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True he would be skinny as all get out.. which is not so realistic when it came to fighting men in armour.. *nods*..

i am looking forward to taking photos of the two of you in costume.. *squee*

i also have an urge to take a photo of the two of you drinking tea at a table with a fancy table cloth all incostume... mwahahaha...
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From:tatjna
Date:March 3rd, 2014 09:47 pm (UTC)
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That could be interesting - I'll have to see if it's possible for us to sit down! ;-)
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From:nessainwe
Date:March 4th, 2014 03:22 am (UTC)
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I love these posts :D I wish I was so talented :)
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From:tatjna
Date:March 4th, 2014 08:33 pm (UTC)
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I'm glad you enjoy them! ;-)
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From:ghost_light
Date:March 4th, 2014 09:05 pm (UTC)
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That is incredibly!
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From:tatjna
Date:March 4th, 2014 09:07 pm (UTC)
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Thanks! I really hope it comes out like the picture in my head..
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From:pundigrion
Date:March 5th, 2014 05:09 am (UTC)
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Something about this combo of armour and socks peeking out makes me giggle greatly! (And not just because they look pink, but just that it is so incongruous!)
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From:tatjna
Date:March 5th, 2014 05:19 am (UTC)
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I am sure Cullen would actually wear socks that his Mum knitted. They'd be homespun and bulky and have those pointy toes with strings. ;-)
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From:pundigrion
Date:March 6th, 2014 08:32 pm (UTC)
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Hehe, or given the period they would be knit from impossibly fine yarn, probably silk!
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From:tatjna
Date:March 7th, 2014 01:08 am (UTC)
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METAL

ASS
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From:adam_0oo
Date:March 8th, 2014 01:07 am (UTC)
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bite my shiny metal ass photo: Bite my shiny metal ass! Bender.jpg
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From:Will Marshall
Date:March 6th, 2014 10:25 am (UTC)
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The socks are a nice touch. I think you should keep them.
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From:tatjna
Date:March 7th, 2014 01:09 am (UTC)
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I thought so. Perhaps with matching underwear.
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From:adam_0oo
Date:March 8th, 2014 01:05 am (UTC)
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I had wee flames once. I had to go to the doctor.
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